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Fairy tales usually end by happy marriage, but fantastic story of Van Cleef & Arpels began with the usual fairy tale end. In 1896 the daughter of Parisian merchant of precious stones Estelle Arpels and son of Amsterdam diamond negotiant Alfred van Cleef married. They started family business and in 10 years the family opened jewelery shop in the center of Paris on Place Vendôme, 22. Arpels collected unique stones all over the world: the most clear, the most rare, the most beautiful, for than to turn it in masterpieces. Working only with materials of the most high quality materials, Van Cleef & Arpels quickly earned the authority of pioneers in area of fine treatment precious stones and got flawless reputation all over France.
At the beginning the business led Alfred and brother of his wife Charles, but soon they unite with experts of precious stones Julien and Louis Arpels. Their participation predetermined the success of family business. With the arrival of Charles in 1906 was registered trade mark Van Cleef & Arpels. All in the company were on their places: Estelle kept accounting, Alfred and Charles were responsible for commercial, and other members of the family – for flawless quality.
On International exhibition of decorative arts 1925, the brand won Grand Prix (brooch Deux Roses - “Two Roses” in the form of two flowers, one of which is made from ruby drop with yellow diamond in the center, and second – from number of diamonds); in 1931 was won Grand Prix of Colonial exhibition in Paris, and in 1931 Van Cleef & Arpels won special prize “out of competition” on Global exhibition in New-York... Exclusiveness and classic beauty of jeweleries Van Cleef & Arpels supported by business observation of hereditary merchants, provided the House quick success. To 1935 watches of the company were presented in all fashionable Côte d'Azur resorts – from Dinar to Monte-Carlo, with great benefit to indulging high society during sea vacation.
But the only precious stone is not enough for getting success. Even anthrax of exceptional beauty needs to further finishing. It's not just about cutting , but also about design solutions, due to which forms impression about company - manufacturer. In 1926 the place of art-director of the House got daughter of Estelle and Alfred Rene-Piusan. This appointment played important role in further becoming of the brand and fixation of its corporate identity. As a result of co-operation of Rene with designer Sim Lacase appeared amazing creations, easy in ideas and complicated in realization.
In 1930 Charles Arpels peeped socialite-millionaire Florence Jay Guld, who put the lipstick in tin box. Thus he developed minoder – precious case for keeping cosmetics. This thing became one of successful inventions of House and indispensable attribute in evening women dressing. Van Cleef & Arpels developed its own style without fashion, moving in chosen direction confidently, like a powerful icebreaker through the eternal ice.
In 30-s-50-s when the House was headed by second generation of family Claude and Jacques, and part of workshops moved to America (first boutique in New-York was opened in 1939 Pierre Arpels, nowadays it is situated on 5th Avenue, 744). About sharp eye of Jacques Arpels there were legends, after he canceled the selling of Deepende - diamond of 104 karats in color of yellow jonquils. Despite the stone was natural, someone worked under his unique color. Jacques, unlike other specialists, noticed it and, damaged illusions of potential buyers made to speak about him all jewelery beau monde. “The stones don't keep secrets from those who love them, - he said, - you should have wisdom to understand that nature and beauty are not separated from each other”.
There was know-how from the House - “Mystery Setting” patented in 1933. Thanks to it, jewelers managed to reach the effect of continuity of precious paintings, which is seen in jeweleries and viewing flowers and materials.
Thus, Van Cleef & Arpels invented shining gold laces and embroideries,brushes and cords, ribbons and bows, covered with rubies and diamonds. In 30-s was invented conception Passe-Partout: gold chain with brooch flower decorated with precious stones, which can be wear as necklace, bracelet, brooch or strap. A little later there was one more transformer – necklace “Zip”, or “Lightning”. It was made by order of Wallis Simpson, the future duchess of Windsor. In 1936, thanks to the duchess of Windsor, appeared decoration which entered history, - women's watch C adenas. Jewelers feigned bracelet with hidden dial of watches, only the owner could see it. Invented watches Van Cleef & Arpels let to keep woman's reputation as in 20-s – 30-s apearing in society with wristwatches was sign of bad taste. This watch forever entered the history with the help of... prejudice that times.
The youngest from second generation of Arpels – Pierre became competent member of work collective in 1944, and his arrival coincided with the turning point in the history of the House, during the war the business went not good. But in America, which was far from European fields of war, demand for luxury didn't fall but also got high. To the office in New-York was added department in Palm Beach, through wich Van Cleef & Arpels in future years successfully “colonized” countries of New World.
Its family status Van Cleef & Arpels lost in 1999, when the last person from “jewelery” dynasty Jacques Arpels – sold the company to Richmont Group. Soon Jacques Arpels died – with his withdrawal ended romantic epoch of van Cleefs and Arpels, which with years will be more like fairy tale about Love, Hope and Believe in own power...” |
