Van Cleef & Arpels as a work of art

In 20-s of ÕIÕ century jewelers started to play important role in sphere of horology. Firstly, men begin to accept this utilitarian accessory as a decoration Secondly, women's watches get rehabilitation, earlier to have it was not acceptable for ladies.
Till now, many manufacturer of wristwatches seek to amaze tempted public not with complicated movements, but also with unusual appearance. Especially this approach actual for jewelery house Van Cleef & Arpels, which specialized on manufacture of jeweleries.
To turn watches in jewelery, masters of house Van Cleef & Arpels use for case making precious metals. Besides, many watches of this brand are decorated with diamonds. It should be noted that Van Cleef & Arpels jewelers invented, so called, technique of invisible frame. In using this exclusive technique the frame of the diamond hide from eyes, which let to open all the beauty of precious stone. For dial finishing of wristwatches Van Cleef & Arpels often use pearl, onyx and even wood.
After long time of silence, etching came into fashion. As for wristwatches it correlates not just to patterns on the case, but also to dial finishing. Guilloche makes unique texture of pearl, which attaches to product generosity and originality. Not wishing to stand aside from modern trend, in 2007 company Van Cleef & Arpels invited to co-operation famous engraver Olivier Vache. This master made, for example, guilloche of watch dial Feerie with animated fairy, magic stick which play role of hand. Vache also participated in making of several tourbillons with enamel dials from Van Cleef & Arpels, produced in the same year. Master is very proud of his work.
Enamel dials of wristwatches Van Cleef & Arpels made master – autodidact  Dominick Baron. She finished course of art after which in her career was little break. Later, went one more course of education, Dominick Baron became master of making miniature on enamel. In 2000 she managed to open workshop in Geneva company Roger Dubuis. Nowadays, she teach young specialists.
In 2005 Dominick Baron made first order for house Van Cleef & Arpels – watches, dedicated to centenary of the company. Since than co-operation periodically gladdens fans of this brand with fairy design of dials.
Painting on enamel is not accurate science, though some technology subtleties is very important to comply. Enamel is a special type of glass, which inflicts on glass, porcelain, in our case – metal base, after which undergo high temperature finishing, needed for merger of metals. For its making in special finished crock place all needed components and heat till filling of the crock will turn into colorless liquid. For giving to future enamel color in this semi-finished add oxides of different substances – magnesium, platinum, cobalt, boric acid, etc. To pigment distribute evenly, the mass heat for 14 hours, after which pour out on flat cast iron surface, to get transparent enamel, or in cap from the same material for making, so called, “deaf” (non transparent) enamel.
In workshop of Dominick Baron has collection of enamel from 250 colors. Before making the drawing on the dial, it should be pounded and clean For pounding of enamel they use mortar and pestle from agate. This choice is explained by that agate is harder than glass, that is why doesn't crumble and doesn't paint the enamel. Then powder wash with distillate water and finish with nitric acid for deleting metal and organic pieces. Now we can inflict enamel on the dial. For this use thinnest needles or brush from several hairs. Also they use microscope. Usually, before inflicting the painting, metal base covered with colorless layer – glaze, not to change the color of the frame after thermal finishing. Back case of the dial covers with layer of enamel. This method is called “rear enamel” and serve for dial not to deformed in process of firing. When painting is ready, blank place in oven with temperature 800 degree. For master it is always vulnerable moment, because on this stage he can't influence on the process. Earlier ovens for firing place in dark rooms, to easy look for changes of colors. There are some unpleasant surprises  - if temperature very high, there is risk that metal will melt, especially gold, temperature of melting rather not high.
There are several techniques of infliction enamel.
Le Champlevé is sinuate enamel. The most older technique. Metal base for dials make not very thin. In it cut out deepening, fill it with colored enamel, bake and polish the dial. In this technique are made watches Extraordinary Hummingbirds.
Le Cloisonné is cloisonne enamel. On the dial lay the circuit of future painting with thinnest metal tape, cells fills with enamel powder, and all this go to oven. Example – watch Tourbillon Paon.
L’émail de Basse taille is a painting on the base of engraving and guilloche, on which inflict glaze or translucent enamel, for after firing the pattern stays     
distinguishable. To this type correlates Tourbillon Colibri, to creation of wich laid his hand Olivier Voche.
L’émail Plique à jour make like stained-glass window type. Make like cloisonne, but on copper base, which after firing of painting dissolve with acid. Result - stained-glass window butterflies on the dials from collection Extraordinary Butterfly.
Painting miniature on enamel is a drawing. Dial cover with base (usually of white color), over which with micro brush inflict painting from colored enamels, combined with oil solution. After inflicting, every color blank firing. Ready dial additionally cover with layer of glaze. In this technique is made painting on the dial 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea.
Nowadays, wristwatches with enamel miniatures are needed by collectors and fans of beauty. It perfectly suits conception of poetic taking of time, which bring masters of house Van Cleef & Arpels.