Vintage style and retro - nostalgia for bygone era
Everything new is forgotten past, but in case of the vintage and retro style - it's rather rebirth and renewal old («retro» from the Latin meaning "back", "facing backwards" and the word «vintage» from French means "aging wine"). Conclusively that over time the retro style of dress, as good wine, not only does get old, but has become better, more urgent. Vintage can be divided into the following categories: as an authentic vintage - rare things (often of known brands), stylized vintage - the use of modern collection of silhouettes, drawings, decorations, cut retro clothing, vintage combo - using vintage materials in the manufacture of clothing and accessories, along with modern ones. Recently vintage and retro styles are becoming more popular and various designers use retro style not only in clothing, accessories, interior design, but also skilled watchmakers use retro style in creating beautiful watches: luxury romance of antiquity inspires them to new creations. More and more people gravitate to plunge into the era of the past, to experience it all over again and possibly turn back the clock. Vintage style is a passion as ordinary people, and the true aristocrats, and it now has become the latest fashion trend. The modern fashion for "vintage stuff" revived attractive and elusive retro style. Even the famous brides turn their attention to a "lost past." Everyone wants to be sure of their identity. More and more people want to buy old clothes in good condition. Again flared trousers, miniskirts, suits of 50th years firmly entered into vogue. Vintage clothing of famous brands cost a lot of money, but even that did not stop fans of this style, who want to emphasize a subtle aesthetic taste and personality. For example, clothes in the style of the legendary "Chanel" never lost their relevance, will not be primitive and not "reek of mothballs". We can say with certainty that the most beautiful and famous woman of retro era - Marlene Dietrich, Marilyn Monroe and Sophia Loren - will forever remain an icon of style.
Today, all levels of human life imbued with a retro theme. Many films of the former epoch come to the big screen once again. At the court of spoiled viewers are reinterpreted versions of such popular films of the last century as for example “The Bodyguard” with Kevin Costner and Whitney Houston. In 2010 new version of that film came to the big screen under the title “London Boulevard” with Keira Knightly and Colin Farrel. How the authors managed to convey the idea of nostalgia by the modern cinema is judged only by audience. Many of the quotes from the movies have become an integral part of our lexicon. Very often we can hear phrases such as “Carpe Diem. Seize the day, boys. Make your life extraordinary” from the famous movie “Dead Poets Society” with Robin Williams, “Wait a minute, wait a minute. You ain’t heard nothing yet” from the famous movie of 20th years “The Jazz Singer” with Al Jonson, “I’m going to make him an offer he can’t refuse” from the “The Godfather” with Marlon Brando and immortal phrase as the protagonist of the film “I’ll be back” from the movie “The Terminator” with Arnold Schwarzenegger. The list of famous phrases is very long. These phrases will never go out of use by making a reality of our notes of nostalgia and humor.
Today, the interior of many restaurants and cafes are increasingly represented in the retro style. Old chairs, various utensils in vintage style and, of course, favorite books, and newspapers of the last century - all this makes the restaurant very popular, and it become favorite institutions of more than one hundred people. Just one newspaper on the table, such as the "The New York Times" or “The Times” of 1930 or the French newspaper "Le Monde" of 1960, and the surge of emotions and good mood is provided for the rest day. Retro music is the "highlight" for all places of entertainment. Many people still remember how as a boy made their way to the disco. Disco 80th lured a lot of young people by its festive atmosphere, which could plunge by anyone. These days, everything has changed: other interests, globalization and new technologies - all of this implies more unleavened communion than ordinary living dialogue. However, in spite of this, the disco had not lost its charm today, becoming more popular day by day. The growing number of discos in the style of 80th is organized today and more rooms are made in this style: mirrored walls and ceilings, which were bound in the interior of old disco, have the same design element halls, and the balls that rotate on a thin base, continue decorate the ceiling today and give the atmosphere more and more nostalgic and chic of 80th. Laser projectors are also used widely which are set up with the pace of the played music and they help people to immerse in an enchanting atmosphere. Many audiophiles consider that the true analog sound of vinyl records is better, cleaner and louder compared with the sound of modern digital sound, and that is why vinyl records are still in great popularity among them. Today, the price of turntables brands reaches $ 45,000. However, the "Iron Curtain" is up, and today turntables playing vinyl records are not contraband nature, but they are completely legal origin. Today at the disco it is playing not only original songs of the last century, as well as various their new versions, which are made quite interesting and they are very popular. A striking example of such a composition may be immortal hit «Beggin», which literally blew up all the musical hit - parades and dance floors. But few people know that a band Madcon successfully song the hit of 60th of the legendary Four Seasons. The same was with a hit «Besame mucho», which was written in 1940 by Consuelo Velazquez Torres. Today there are hundreds of versions and instrumental versions, as well as many translations into different languages - this is one of the most recorded songs of all time. Among the performers names of that hit were such famous names as Nat King Cole, Frank Sinatra, The Beatles (1962), Joao Gilberto, Delilah, Cesaria Evora, Luis Miguel, Jimmy Dorsey, Dean Martin, Andrea Bocelli, Diana Kral. The legendary band The Beatles often played this song in live performances since 1962.
More and more people are looking to retro cars, which are certainly the bearer of its history, the era and, of course, this is a car with a soul. Retro cars are sort of a classic car, which dictates the rules for future generations of automakers. History remembers many of the legendary car brands that are forever left their mark not only in the story, but in the hearts of millions. That is why the automobile production became more science and art, rather than just production. Some were born for the road, others for speed, and others to emphasize the elite status of its owner. Now the classic car is a desirable acquisition for collectors. Many wealthy people have made collecting vintage cars their own way of expression, thus showing their taste and, of course, their status. Many vintage cars associated with the words of individuality and exclusivity, and it is quite correct, because you can hardly find two identical vintage cars at the streets. These cars are either reduced in the full original - it is very time consuming and very expensive process, or remarked a retro car for their owners. Today, single copies of vintage car are in operating status, and they are really rare. And if you see the legendary retro car at the street, emotion and nostalgia overwhelm you (unless of course you were a witness to their popularity). Retro cars do not leave anyone indifferent. Number of people who fallen passionately in love with these cars, becomes more and more, today there are entire clubs of fans of retro cars, they are exhibitions and caravans dedicated to the legendary retro cars. Naturally, vintage cars will never lose their popularity because they are a whole epoch of history and a lifetime. Some well-known car manufacturers are now releasing new versions of its "past victories," in which the design can be traced all the elements of the past. For example, in 2008 Dodge began producing a sports coupe Dodge Challenge, which became the bearer of the traditions of the legendary Dodge coupe 1970. While the car is available in limited quantities, and it is natural: it is designed as a retro car and it is designed to emphasize the individuality and taste of its owner.
Talk about vintage would be incomplete without such concept as neovintage. It is the clothing and accessories created in our time but with "antique" style. It is actively used in the collections of contemporary designers not only haute couture (many create almost all of their collections on the ideas of the past, such as John Galliano, who actively use the theatrical style of the gallant century.), but also in such accessories as wristwatches.
Wristwatch is one of the major accessories, which vintage style is widely used in. Vintage wristwatch is a stylish attribute, highlighting the fine exquisite taste of its owner and who can tell a lot about its owner. In recent time many well-known watch companies has presented a collection of watches in vintage style, regularly replenishing them with new models.
At BaselWorld 2011 the well-known watch company Longines presented a model Longines Twenty-Four Hour, which release was marked by the revival of vintage watches of 50 - 60th years. This model has already become a classic of vintage and made a splash thanks to its design, which is exactly the same with the watches of the last century. Another well-known watchmaker Anonimo, which is known for its fine military watches, recently added a new model Military Vintage to its range, which immediately gained immense popularity due to the excellent combination of the two different styles. And another watchmaker Bell & Ross, known for its reliable pillots’ watches, presented a collection in vintage style. All this is quite clearly says that this is not the full list of the companies, who turning their attention to a past age, and that vintage style becomes more popular day by day. Of course, the fans keep coming. It should be noted that the attributes, including wrist watches in vintage style, are a little different with their materials. The used materials are different: gold, steel, but today, the basic material for the creation of vintage style attributes, which are becoming increasingly important, is the bronze, which is durable, and it tends to darken with time, and gives the product a vintage and "shabby" look. Initially bronze was widely used in table clocks, but later it successfully migrated to the wristwatch. Main part of the vintage watch is dial and it usually covered by enamel, paper, or patina. Patina is a coating that is completely devoid of every kind of light: it does not reflect, and absorb light. Such well-known watch companies like Panerai, U - Boat, Anonimo, Azimuth and IWC widely use dial with patina in their watches. Among the timepieces in the vintage style is impossible to find a model with bright colors: first vintage timepiece - a classic, a classic in every way excludes the possibility of interpretation on this subject. It is impossible to find a model with bright colors among the timepieces in the vintage style: at first vintage timepiece is a classic, and a classic excludes the possibility of interpretation on this subject in every way. The wristwatch in vintage style generally have artificially shabby strap, which gives the watch final vintage look. Also, the vintage models, in general, haven’t any complications. Retro watches are quite expensive, which everyone cannot afford (unless of course there are dusty watches, for example, Panerai or Rolex in a grandmother's chest, but it is unlikely - such acquisitions are not stored in the trunks). For example, old watches Panerai of 60th's, made in Florence, cost about $ 100,000. But rare Patek Philippe wristwatch, created in 1954, was sold for $ 1.197 million at the Geneva Auction Exceptional Collectors Timepieces, Horological Tools and Documents, which took place on 15 May this year. The buyer wanted to keep his name in secret. His acquisition has closed the list of ten most expensive watches in the world. Wrist watches from Panerai Marina Militare 1953 were sold for $ 92.000. The model is notable that it is equipped with Rolex movement caliber 15 3/4-line (like all the Panerai watches of 50 - 60th years). However, despite the fact that people are able to lay out about $ 2 million for a watch, they do not enjoy the mass popularity. There is one question "why"? Because the diameter of retro watches case is only 34 - 35 mm, which is not relevant in the modern watchmaking. Today there is a tendency to increase watch case: the case diameter of modern wristwatches is 42 - 44 mm. However, even in far-off 50 - 60th years, such companies as Panerai, Patek Philippe and Eberhard & Co went on such risky venture as increasing the case to 44 - 46 mm for the first time. The choice should be done by lovers of these beautiful creations, we can only say with certainty that retro wristwatch or a vintage style perfectly underline the individuality of its owner: the owner is over the crowd with them, but not in front of her!
Join the brilliance of past eras and to emphasize their individuality, you can use things from the "exposure" or stylized antique. The main the cloth of past epochs must fit into your modern lifestyle and modern life. The concept of the vintage is not as straightforward as it seems at first glance. Many of the trends of the season are copying styles, so beloved by our grandmothers, but in combination, from which the old women usually have an aesthetic shock. On the other hand, yesterday's vintage will soon become must-have of the season and the next generation exclaimed in astonishment: "Is this what you wore?", and after a couple of seasons, the young fashion girl of 50s of the XXI century gladly wear jeans with rhinestones and a wealthy man would wear a wrist watch in vintage style, and they will sigh with delight: "This is worn at the beginning of the century...".
I think the vintage style will continue to swell the ranks of his admirers, and if a person understands the classics ... so he grew up, was held at first as a true aesthetic.
Longines Twenty-Four Hours (ref. L2.751.4.53) – revival of watches in vintage style
In early of 1950s, a famous watch brand Longines was a supplier of watches for the Swiss national airline Swissair. These developed by brand watches had got easy readable dial with 24 - hour scale and they became successor of the main technical heritage of pilot watches. 24 - hour dial became the technical features of this watch, and fully meet the needs of navigators of those times, which had to determine the aircraft's position and to plan a flight by themselves. That's why a reliable wristwatch was an essential part of equipment pilots. During the flight, the aircraft crossed different time zones in the two directions. It was not always possible to observe the Sun accurately, which position was used as a reference point. As a result, there was a need for a tool that would be able to instantly determine the exact time. This task was easily handled by wristwatch with a 24 - hour scale on the dial by the company Longines.
The revival of history "in form" of model Longines Twenty-Four Hours began in 2009 when Harry Hoffman, who formerly served in Swissair and who is now a retired navigator, visited the Museum of Longines. Visiting the museum wasn’t random and not a purely curiosity, he decided to donate to the museum a wrist watch Longines, which adorned his wrist when he worked at Swissair. His wristwatch with 24-hour scale on the dial was from a series that the brand Longines produced specifically for the navigators of Swissair in 1950. Wristwatch of Harry Hoffman is equipped with a mechanism Longines caliber 37.9N with a central second hand. This mechanism has been developed in 1940s and has been used in watches Longines, designed for pilots. The steel case back of the Mr. Hoffman's watch logo is adorned with the logo of Swissair. Archives of the company Longines testify the fact that this wristwatch under the number 8237331 has been from series of 70 hours, which were produced between 1953 and 1956 exclusively for the Swiss national airline. In terms of technical performance the wrist watch of Hoffmann closely reminds pilot watch - model Longines Weems Second-Setting, released in 1927, or chronometer Lindbergh Hour Angle, which the brand Longines started producing in 1932.
Gift of Hoffmann inspired masters of the company Longines for new achievements. The company Longines has updated this historic and irreplaceable for that time model, rethinking its technical specifications. The watch company Longines was not distinguished by the originality: the novelty was called fairly predictable - Longines Twenty-Four Hours. This new wrist watch Longines Twenty-Four Hours has preserved the characteristic features of its prototype. The flawlessly round case in diameter of 47.5 mm is made of stainless steel. The matte black dial with 24 - hour scale is protected by durable sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. The case back with engraving is also covered with sapphire crystal. Arabic indexes and steel hour hands, which are retained their original appearance of the original, are covered with a luminescent substance Super-Luminova. The main distinguishing feature was the date aperture at 3 o'clock position. The inside of the flip case back is decorated with an engraved inscription: "The new version of the watches created in the 1953-1956 years specifically for pilots of Swissair”. The case of this chronometer is concluded accurate self-winding movement L704.2 Longines with 24 rubies. The frequency of balance is 28.800 pc / h; power reserve is 48 hours. The black strap is made of alligator skin and equipped with solid steel clasp. Water resistance is up to 30 meters.
The wristwatch Longines Twenty-Four Hours was presented at the World Exhibition BASELWORLD 2011 hours and made a real splash in the watch industry. The model can be rightly considered a classic vintage, which probably will become a standard for many watch manufactures.
Panerai Radiomir 8 Days (ref. PAM00346)
A well - known watch company Guido Panerai & Figlio, later renamed the Officine Panerai, was founded in 1860 by Giovanni Panerai in the Italian city Florence. The specialization of the company was production a measuring technique for the Italian Navy, mostly compasses, instruments for measuring the depth and torpedo detonators. However, the company decided to go further, adding to the list of "useful" tools one more – a wrist watch. Already in 1936, watchmaker Officine Panerai introduced its first wrist watch Panerai Radiomir, which was equipped with the accurate mechanism Rolex with manual winding.
Wristwatches Panerai Radiomir were designed for frogmen - saboteurs and these watches became worthy addition to their equipment. While at that time only small watch cases in diameter of 34 - 35 mm were actual, but the company Officine Panerai, apparently having decided ahead of time for decades, went on a risky venture at that time: case of the first watch by Officine Panerai had a diameter of 47 mm. Waterproof case was made of brushed steel not to distract the attention of its brilliance in the water. Dial and hands were covered with fluorescent substance Radiomir. With all these efforts and innovations the first diver's watch in the world was born.
The men of the tenth flotilla of torpedo boats "Gamma" were sent to the most dangerous missions of World War II with wristwatches Panerai on their wrists, beating and capturing many British groups in Greece, Crete and the Balkans. The Italian leader of the Nazi party - Mussolini - was proud of his watch Panerai no less than his saboteurs. Wristwatches Panerai had exceptional accuracy, which was the key to a successful outcome of the operation. In 1956, the company Officine Panerai produced a wrist watch Radiomir specially commissioned by the Egyptian Navy. The clock of this legendary watch was provided by mechanism of pocket watches Angelus with power reserve of 8-day. The watch was equipped with a rotating bezel, which made it possible to measure time with a 5 - minute intervals, and had a high water resistance. In the same year, the company has patented its innovative system of the crown protection.
For the Navy of other countries, the company made a strictly limited number of its watches with a total of 30 pieces. That is why today wristwatches Radiomir of 50s are a great find for collectors who had organized a real hunt for these watches. It will be very hard for them: from the use of radium in early models, many of them were immured in concrete containers and sunk in the Mediterranean Sea, so as not to harm the health of their future owners. Poor the Mediterranean Sea, because passionate collectors can get them already at the bottom of the sea!
History, like time, doesn’t stand: everything flows - everything changes. In the new 21st century the watch company Officine Panerai has presented an updated version of the famous watch Radiomir of 50s. The new model has been called Radiomir 8 Days (ref. PAM00346), while retaining all the features of the legendary wristwatch. All the elements of the watch look of 50s can be traced in the design. A distinctive feature is probably the number 9, or rather its absence. At position 9 o’clock there is a small second counter. At position 3 o’clock there is the aperture of the date, which was also the addition of a new model. The same 8 - day power reserve is provided by hand-wound mechanism Panerai 2002 / 9 with 21 rubies, which have successfully replaced the famous Rolex. The frequency of balance is 28 800 vp/h. The traditional case with diameter of 45 mm is made of stainless steel. The bezel is made of polished steel or titanium. Fairly simple in its execution, but with good readability, the brown dial is covered with durable sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, which also covers the case back of the watch. The brown strap, perfectly harmonized with the dial, is made of alligator skin and is equipped with a solid steel titanium buckle. Water resistance is up to 100 meters.
The wristwatch Radiomir 8 Days by Panerai is a passage of the history on the wrist of its owner. They perfectly underline impeccable taste of its owner, gravitating to the watches in vintage style.
Militare Vintage от Anonimo – watch out of time
Relatively young watch company from Florence - Anonimo, managed to gain great popularity around the world, was founded in 1997 by entrepreneur Federico Massachesi. Today the company produces unique watches, which are of high quality and very recognizable design. The purpose of the company's founder has been achieved: wrist watches Anonimo can fully describe its owner. Despite its short history in the watch industry the watch company Anonimo has a long history of cases production, which began in 1939. Then the company was producing high-quality cases for the well-known company Panerai. The ancestors of Ambuki Antonio, who were engaged in this production of cases, are now CTO of the company Anonimo, continuing the tradition of his famous ancestors. The watch company Anonimo also is one of the few which uses coating of patina in its original dials (patina eliminates shine). Watches without shine have "severe and moderate" look, which is one of the main features of watches in style military or vintage. The watch company Anonimo is the only watch brand in the world, which makes the watch case by cutting it from the billet. In addition, the company began using marine bronze UNI 5275, known as aluminum bronze.
In 2011 at BaselWorld the company Anonimo presented a new luxury model of chronometer Militare Vintage, which has become a tribute to the first wristwatches of wartime. The source of inspiration to create this gorgeous model was a huge popularity and stunning success of the model Militare, which the company introduced in 2001.Wristwatch Militare Vintage is a perfect combination of modern technology and the latest fashion trends, as well as features the very first wristwatches military. This new model has a original, very good interpretation of the model Militare. The watch company Anonimo was able to combine styles of vintage and military with excellence. Masters of the company equipped the watch Militare Vintage with a unique patented device of locking crown, which eliminates the random displacement of hands from the initial position. This "useful and unique" in-kind system is located at the underside of the case. The steel case with diameter of 43.40 mm is equipped with completely handmade, accurate and reliable Swiss movement SW260-January 11 ½ with 31 rubies and with a power reserve of 40 hours. The small second counter is placed at position 9 o’clock. The date aperture is located at position 6 o’clock. The dial is available in two colors version: in black and parchment colors. The latter was a new color for watches Anonimo, which hazy shade perfectly reflects the concept of "vintage". The hands and indexes are covered with fluorescent substance, providing full visibility of indicators even in the darkest conditions. The case back and dial are covered with reliable sapphire crystal. The waterproof leather strap is made of patented by Anonimo technology Opera Kodiak (leather straps with extreme resistance even to sea water, which drying, acquire their original form) and it is equipped with an exclusive and secure steel buckle. Skilled craftsmen of the company Anonimo model equipped this model with all necessary military functions, such as dust - and waterproof, shockproof and maximum reliability. Water resistance of the model Militare Vintage is up to 120 m.
Buy watch Militare Vintage by Anonimo one can just for $ 2.850.
Wristwatches Anonimo are watches out of time, they always will be actual, becoming worthy attribute of style, passing from generation to generation. They will be a wonderful decoration of the wrist and the finishing touch of perfect style of those who tends to all exclusive, original, in this case also to the vintage.
The Big Pilot’s Watch – an embodiment of the watch company IWC
The Swiss watch company IWC was founded in 1868 by Florencio Aristo Jones. The company IWC has immediately gained an enormous popularity due to the so-called "calibers Jones", which differed by their elongated acicular needle of thermometer, which at that time was the most effective escapement. The watch company IWC is one of the first manufactures, which has developed the special watch for use on the board of aircraft. The most famous models of IWC in the first half of the twentieth century are The Big Pilot's Watch (1940), Portuguese (1939) and Portofino (1984). That watch The Big Pilot's Watch, released in 1940, became the first pilot watch by IWC. They were created specifically for pilots of Luftwaffe to operate in harsh conditions of aviation flights at that time. Almost all the important functions for the pilot's watch were laid in this model: black dial with distinct luminous hands and figures, which are perfectly combine with the design of the classic cockpit. These watches are still one the most accurate chronometers. The model was named "large pilot's watch" because the case has diameter of 55 mm. Later, some models have been equipped with mechanism which details of the escapement had anti-magnetic properties. All in all were released 1,000 pieces of these legendary watches and that is why they are rare. The first large series of professional watches, designed for pilots also had a rotating bezel with luminous triangular marker. It has helped to control the flight time and fuel consumption. The wrist watch The Big Pilot's Watch in the vintage style became cult model: the well-known watch brand IWC is associated primarily with the model The Big Pilot's Watch.
At its 140 - year anniversary the watch company IWC has introduced an updated version of the legendary model The Big Pilot's Watch (ref. IW500401), which the master tried to preserve the characteristic features of the prototype in, given the increasing popularity of vintage style. The new model retained the original dial of the model 40s. However, despite the growing importance of large cases, the master reduced the steel case of this model from 55 to 46.2 mm (perhaps also rather big creature!). The inner side of the case is made of "soft" iron, which protects the watch from magnetic fields. On the dial there is a small dial of 7 - day power reserve at position 3 o'clock. The date aperture is located at position 6 o'clock. This model is a rethought version with an automatic winding mechanism caliber 51 111 with 42 stones - one of the largest movement in the world (in the same model of 1940 was used caliber 83). The captivating work of the inner movement can be seen through the sapphire glass covered the case back. The design of some elements of the earliest mechanisms Jones remained the same: ¾ board, the famous long hand Jones (escapement), the balance with a characteristic frequency of a pocket watch 18 000 vph. All other elements: the spiral of balance, winder spring and other important components are made of modern, high-quality alloys, which, of course, greatly increase the stunning accuracy and reliability of watches IWC. The black dial with luminous indixes and hands is covered with durable as sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating. The black strap, in perfect harmony with the black dial, is made of alligator skin. The water resistance is up to 6 bars.
The wrist watch The Big Pilot's Watch is a living legend, an embodiment of the watch company IWC and vintage style. Created in the last century, the wristwatch The Big Pilot's Watch is still relevant. It still is one of the finest watches, preferred by true professionals of "serious" professions.
To be continued ...