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Articles | Interview

Ageless classics from world-known watch brands at SIHH 2012
(part 5)

Ageless classics

Many people associate the phrase “classic style” with the concepts: “standard”, “traditional”, “regular”, “typical”, “specific” or “music”, “literature”, “art”. When we hear the word “classic”, we unconsciously imagine some “figure” or “model”, which often combines necessary elements, harmoniously matching each other: classic color, classic metal, classic strap, classic hands, classic incrustation, and classic traditions – all that lies underlies the classic design of wrist watches. In spite of all changes in culture and traditions of different nations, the timeless values remain unchanged and are kept carefully, handed from one generation to another.

Classic watches at SIHH 2012

Among classic watch models, presented at SIHH 2012, you can see many timepieces, carefully created by hands of qualifies watchmakers, keeping both many-centuries history of watch companies and thousands-year history of humanity. The geometric models contain classics that became a standard of beauty and art in Ancient Greece – the line geometry. The round smooth shapes keep traditions of Renaissance. The rich forms and precious stones take us back to Classicism, prosperous in Europe during the 17-19 centuries.


No doubt, high-quality movements always were the main advantage of Jaeger-LeCoultre brand, prove of unexcelled Swiss quality and true luxury. Each new creation, new collection and new model inspired the opponents of Jaeger-LeCoultre for reproduction of similar watches, but no one managed to surpass the original watches by Jaeger-LeCoultre. The manufactory of Jaeger-LeCoultre follows several main rules, set even by the company’s founder Antoine LeCoultre, one of which says: “perfection and taste of new ideas are two fundamental values”. Over two hundred years these words have been meaning more than a credo for the manufacturers of Jaeger-LeCoultre brand.
The charm of simplicity, elegance and sophistication of presented watch models at the exhibition delights and enraptures. So, for example, the classic models by Jaeger-LeCoultre are notable by model “Duometre à Quantième Lunaire”, provided with the movement, based on 381 caliber, Dual-Wing system and set into 40,5-mm case; well-known, but a bit renewed model “Master Reserve De Marche”, based on caliber 928, consisting of 256 details and 45 jewelers. The case may be crafted in pink gold or stainless steel. The dial with the same logo is covered with sapphire glass. The back case is not less elegant, than the front side; it has a serial number of model and the brand’s logo. The wrist watch “Master Control” is an embodiment of classic style, fine taste of designers and watchmakers from Jaeger-LeCoultre. The 38-hour power reserve is achieved with the help of rotor, made of 21-carat gold. The models are completed with natural leather straps. Also the watches can be equipped with metallic bracelets, the links of which may be gilded as well as silver-plated. Everything is up to a customer, who can buy watches by Jaeger-LeCoultre at official distributors of the brand and also at the website.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre à Quantième Lunaire  Master Ultra Thin Reserve de Marche Master Control


The company, named after the highest peak in Europe,
STAR 4810 AUTOMATIC appeared more than 100 years ago thanks to three companions, who decided to establish writing accessories production. Obviously, the union of three businessmen was a kind of magic, as only some magic forces could explain such striking success that Montblanc had won at the territory of Germany, then in other European countries.
Three entrepreneurs didn’t want to stop at manufacture of writing accessories and decided to issue watches and other accessories that brought not less success to them and fortified their position at the world market. At first, the Montblanc trade mark produced mainly men wrist watches, then the designers created women models, the first pieces of which conquered the hearts of many fashion ladies around the world.
Among the participants, presenting classic wrist watches at SIHH 2012, one can distinguish Montblanc and its model “STAR 4810 AUTOMATIC” (presented in 5 different variations), the 41,5-mm case of which is made of 18-carat red gold or stainless steel. The dials of models are presented in black, silver and white colors, “wave” guilloched from the central lower part of dial, a bit above date aperture. The hands and Roman numerals of hour markings are gilded or silver-plated. The crown is also made of red gold or silver, decorated with natural mother-of-pearl and brand logo of Montblanc. All models, presented at SIHH , are equipped with classic straps of natural alligator leather of black or brown color or metallic bracelet. Everyone can buy the watches at official distributors of the brand or at the website of the company.


Enormous talent and unlimited experience, craving for invention and professionalism of Michele Parmigiani raised him lightning-fast to the peak of popularity at horlogerie. At the beginning the company mainly fulfilled orders for repairing of old watches and movements that only fortified the reputation of “Parmigiani Mesure et Art du Temps SA” as a strong watch brand. Soon the watchmakers started carrying out orders for movements manufacture, and then for manufacture of whole watches. The brand of Parmigiani is well-known among restorers, collectors and museum curators, as all movements and time meters, coming back from the workshop of Parmigiani, worked exclusively accurate.
The modern models, produced by the watch company, are not inferior to the watches, released 20-30 years ago, at all. The wrist watches of Parmigiani take part in watch exhibitions all around the world together with such tycoons, as Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget or Vacheron Constantin.


The women, who attended the watch exhibition in Geneva, have focused their attention at one more stand, presenting the wrist watches of PARMIGIANI. The models “KALPARISMA” are designed in classic style. The movement is based on a compact caliber PF 331. The prismatic dial with arch edges reminds of barrel and reflects the idea of designers, working on “KALPARISMA” collection, which combines high-accurate mechanics and sophisticated aesthetics of lines. The whole collection is made of 18-carat gold; some models are adorned with diamonds. The brand’s logo is situated a little bit above center of guilloched mother-of-pearl dial. The hour markings are also made of 18-carat red gold. The designers offer two variants of new watch series: with date aperture at the bottom of dial and without it. The aperture is situated at the bottom of mother-of-pearl guilloched dial; the logotype of the brand is at the opposite part of dial, a bit above the center. The models with no date indication are provided with a 5-point star, made of 18-carat gold, instead of aperture. The hour markings are also made of 18-carat gold. The natural mother-of-pearl dials of “KALPARISMA Ouranos” collection’s limited women watch models are decorated with diamonds, spangled like constellations.
Some models, the dials of which are not made of mother-of-pearl, are painted in black and white colors and lacquered that give them special deep shine. The straps “Hermes Swift” serve as sophisticated supplement for the wrist watches from “KALPARISMA” collection; they are made of natural white calf leather or lizard leather of black or red colors. Also the watches may be equipped with bracelets of 18-carat gold. Some models from “KALPARISMA” collection are provided with date aperture at the lower part of dial. The watches from PARMIGIANI can be acquired at the website of the company or at the official representatives of the brand.


The company “Piaget”, existing at the world watch market during more than a decade, is undoubtedly surprises and charms by each new model. One of the latest pieces of classic collection is the women wrist watch “Limelight Dancing Light watch”, the 39-mm case of which is made of 18-carat gold (white or pink) and adorned with 68 diamonds (each - 1,7 carats). The dial can be made of natural mother-of-pearl as well as incrusted with 98 diamonds (each – 0,2 carats). The hours are indicated with Roman numerals from white or pink gold. The watch can be decorated with satin strap of black or brown color. To enjoy the beauty and aesthetics of original creations by Piaget to the full, you’d better hold them in your hands or buy your unusual model of wrist watches at the watch brand’s official representatives.
Among the men classic watches, presented by Piaget at SIHH 2012, we’ll notice “Piaget Altiplano”, automatic models, set in cases from white and yellow 18-carat gold of 5,25-mm thickness and 43-mm diameter. The watch “Piaget Altiplano” can be referred to ultrathin pieces of the company, based on in-house caliber Piaget 1208P; the watch is equipped with automatic self-winding movement and small supplementary dial-stop watch. This model is also available in a more expensive performance – with white golden bezel, incrusted with 88 diamonds of classic cut, each – 0,8 carats. The watch is decorated with strap from natural alligator leather of black or brown color and golden buckle of matching color.

Piaget Altiplano Piaget Altiplano Double Jeu Limelight Dancing Light watch Piaget Altiplano Platinum

The men watch “Piaget Altiplano Double Jeu” shows the time in 24-hour format. The case is crafted in 18-carat yellow or white gold. The diameter of case makes up 43 mm. The back case is made of sapphire glass. The ultrathin in-house hand-wound movement is based on two calibers 838P and 832P. The watch is decorated with black or brown straps from natural crocodile leather. Piaget Altiplano Double Jeu risks to become a “dreamboat” for many fans of horlogerie. This model is also available in platinum performance. The ultrathin movement is placed into 40-mm platinum case. The dial is decorated by serigraphy: looking at Piaget Altiplano “platinum”, it seems that the hands and indications, made of grey shale, lie at a piece of black silk panne. This model looks very minimalistic due to incredibly thin hands and indications. The back case is made of sapphire glass that allows watching the movement.

Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren also remained true to watch traditions, following its golden rule: “Fashion changes, style remains!”. The brand has been staying at the peak of popularity since the middle of past century indeed, constantly surprising with new and new masterpieces: clothes, shoes, accessories, perfumes, car accessories and luxury things, among which we’ll mark out wrist watches, of course.
The new timepieces were presented at the exhibition: restrained geometric lines, smooth forms, high-tech performance – all that proves the skillful design. The model of “Square” series are presented in three variations – from 18-carat white gold (smooth and with guilloched bezel and dial) and pink gold. The model is equipped with in-house movement RL430 (manufactured by Piaget specially for Ralph Lauren), set in rectangular 42-mm case. The water resistance of manual winding watch makes up 30 meters. The model is decorated with dark-brown or black strap from natural alligator leather (the color depends on model’s design).

Ralph Lauren Round Ralph Lauren Square

The models from Ralph Lauren of “Round” series repeat the concept of “Square” series. Pink and white 18-carat gold, models with guilloched dials, in-house movement RL430, water resistance – 30 meters, natural alligator leather straps – only the form of dial is different: it is round in this series. Two models from the collection are provided with bezel, incrusted with 192 diamonds (each weighs about 0,86 carats). You can buy wrist watches of Ralph Lauren at the website of the company or at the official representatives of the brand.

Vacheron Constantin

2012 has become a jubilee year for Vacheron Constantin, as the watches from “Malte” collection are known to collectors and amateurs of horlogerie during more than 100 years. The model, created in far 1912, reminding of barrel, is still a true embodiment of classic style and traditions of Vacheron Constantin house. The company did everything for both men and women like the models, presented at SIHH 2012.
The men models “MALTE” of series “100ème anniversaire” are made of pink 18-carat gold of 5N brand; the dial is sandblasted and silver-plated. The hand-wound movement is based on caliber 4400 AS, which contains 21 jewels. The balance frequency makes up 4 Hz that is equal to 28 800 alterations per hour. The power reserve makes up about three days. The second hand is on the separate small dial at lower part of the watch.

Malte 100th Anniversary Edition Malte Lady

The men watch “MALTE 100ème anniversaire” of limited series, released in a number of 100 pieces, are made of 950 platinum, are adorned with Geneve mark at the back case. The manual winding movement is equipped with caliber 4400. The balance frequency makes up 28 800 alterations per hour. The dial indicates hours and minutes. The models “MALTE” of “100ème anniversaire” series (golden and platinum) are equipped with straps from natural alligator leather of black/brown color.
The women watches “MALTE” also give a tribute of honor to traditions of Vacheron Constantin house. Quartz movement, silver-plated and sandblasted dial, 1202 caliber, matchless bezel, incrusted with 50 diamonds of classic cut, each weighs 0,95 carats. The case of 2,10-mm thickness is made of 18-carat pink gold. The dial indicates hours and minutes. The model is decorated with white strap from natural alligator leather.

Baume & Mercier

The company “Baume & Mercier” has presented its new classic collection of watches Hampton at SIHH 2012. The ladies, of course, liked the quartz models from polished steel with diamond incrustation (each diamond weighs 0,34 carats). The case is round, 32 mm in diameter. The dial is made of natural mother-of-pearl. The date aperture is situated at the bottom of dial. The hour and minute markings are made of polished steel. The dial is covered with sapphire glass. The women wrist watches are adorned with steel polished bracelet with unfolding buckle.
There are also models in new collection, the bezel of which isn’t incrusted with diamonds, but adorned with engraved hour markings in the form of Arab numerals. The technical characteristics of all models are the same, only the decoration and incrustation are different. So, for example, the models of Baume & Mercier from new collection “Linea” can be equipped with metallic bracelets, as well as with leather straps of various colors, texture and length (embracing the wrist with one or two turns).

Linea Ref. 10070 Linea Ref. 10071 Linea Ref. 10072 Linea Ref. 10073 Linea Ref. 10074

The wrist watches, presented in the collection of Hampton, fascinate with their perfection, amazing design and performance. The rectangular case from stainless steel, polished dial of light-silver or anthracite color with silver Arab hour markings and thin, sophisticated hands. The straps are made of natural lacquered crocodile leather (brown, mustard, lilac or black colors, also there is a possibility to replace the strap with steel bracelet with unfolding buckle). There is quartz movement inside steel case. The dial with date aperture at “3” hours is covered with sapphire glass.
The collection “Hampton” has a model, especially for demanding fashion ladies, with a steel case, incrusted with 66 diamonds (each weighs 1,78 carats). The watch is completed with white alligator leather strap.

 men's watch Hampton (ref. 10018)  women's watch Hampton (ref. 10025)  men's watch Hampton (ref. 10033)

The men wrist watches from Hampton, presented by Baume & Mercier, are also made by the best classical traditions of the watch brand. The cases and dials of models are made of 18-carat red gold. The polished dial is decorated with golden screws, situated at “1,3,5,7,9,11” hours, imitating hour markings. The rest markings are made in the form of Roman numerals of dark color. Two golden (hour and minute) hands are situated at the center of dial. The stop-watch is situated at the bottom of dial. The crown is engraved with the company’s logo. The dial is covered by sapphire glass. The watch is completed with brown (black color depends on color of gold and dial) strap from natural alligator leather with golden buckle.
When we see how the models of past decades and even past centuries are popular today, we safely say that the classics is not a tribute of respect to the past, the traditions, created by our predecessors; the classics is perpetual modernity. And the watchmakers, presenting their models at SIHH 2012, have managed to prove this once again.


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