BaselWorld 2012: Manero Chrono Perpetual Watch - a modern approach to traditional watchmaking by Carl F.Bucherer

Creating such a watch complexity as not requiring the setting a perpetual calendar with indication of date, month, day, week, and the phases of the moon has always been and remains to this day one of the most difficult technical problems, which are able to solve and implement in their products only to highly skilled professionals from a limited number of watchmakers. This kind of highly complex mechanism operates on the basis of the Gregorian calendar, taking into account the duration of each month, featuring a simple year from the leap year.
The history of the calendar that we all use is rooted in 46 BC. It was then that the Alexandrian astronomer Sozigen developed the principles of the calendar. Each year he divided into 12 months, seven months of 31 days, four months of 30 days and one month - of 29 days.
This calculation assumed the duration of the calendar year to 365.25 days. And to compensate for a quarter of day it was decided that every fourth year will consist of 366 days.
This type of calculation has been called "Julian calendar" because thanks to the Emperor Julius Caesar was adopted throughout the world.
However, this system had an error of calculation, component of 0.0078 days per year, which was amended in 1582 by Pope Gregory XIII. According to the Gregorian calendar system, which got its name from the pope, leap years are not multiple to 100 and non-multiple to 400. This system was quite acceptable and solved many of the errors in chronology, remained in use until today.
Indication of the perpetual calendar has become in watchmaking one of the most elite of complications that only a company with highly skilled professionals can afford.
Thus, the function of the perpetual calendar is the most difficult watch feature of the highest category. However, each holder of the mechanical watch with date display function is familiar with the problem connected with different duration of months of the year. Usually after 30 days of the month the usual mechanical calendars are automatically switched to the 31th, so in the months of duration less than 31 of the day the owner of the watch have to manually rearrange the date of the first day.
Mechanisms with perpetual calendar perform adjustments and an amendment to the leap years automatically. These mechanisms are extremely complex and rightly included in the top category of complex time functions - the so-called grand complication. The immediate adjustment by hand, which is needed for such mechanisms need only in 2100, which according to the rules of the Gregorian calendar is not considered a leap year.
Especially for fans of this classic masterpiece of watchmaking art the masters of Carl F.Bucherer has developed a wristwatch Manero Chrono Perpetual, which were proudly presented at the annual international exhibition BaselWorld 2012.
Advantages of the presented at the exhibition watches are not limited to the module of the eternal (i.e., not requiring correction) calendar with standard set of features: date display at the 12 o’clock position, day of week indicator at 6 o’clock position, the index of the month and leap year at the 9 o’clock position, and moon phase indicator at 3 o’clock position.
A functional module that is developed by Carl F.Bucherer, besides the above feature set also includes a high-precision chronograph with an impressive flyback function.
This mechanical splendor is complemented by a tachometer scale, based on the manufacturing mechanism of Vaucher production, performed with the emphasis of modern decoration.
As for the design, the master of the company was able to achieve, despite the variety and multiplicity of functions the optimum clarity and legibility of indications. Such clarity was obtained as a result of the multilevel structure of the dial with a clean elaborated design.
Thus, hour and minute chronograph counters are located at "6" and "9" o’clock positions, the moving second hand - at the 12 o’clock position. The visual separation of the pointers is achieved by the use of thin dividing lines in black. A small central hand indexes seconds when measuring the time interval.
Hour indexes of the watch are performed in wedge shape, the characteristic design of Carl F.Bucherer watches and giving to them a bright and modern look. Hour and minute hands are made in sharpened form, coated SuperLuminova. Chronograph hands are made in classic white or black.
The central part of the dial is made in silver or black matte finish. The chronological counters and the ring with minute markings - polished, creating a contrast and attractive game of highlights.
Indicator of lunar phases is made on the background of anthracite color and silver color of the moon disc.
All this mechanical grandeur is "clothed" in an elegant case in pink gold or modern stainless steel.
The strap fitting is made in a rather angular shape; the concave bezel is combined with a convex sapphire crystal and chronograph pushers and crown - polished and executed in a minimalist style.
Manero Chrono Perpetual (Ref: 00.10906.03.33.01) watch is performed on the basis of the automatic caliber CFB 1904, with a diameter of 30 mm and a height of 7.6 mm, on the basis of 49 jewels. The power reserve of the models is 50 hours.
Functions: hours, minutes, small second’s hand, perpetual calendar: display month, date, day of week (taking into account leap years), a pointer to the phases of the moon, tachymeter, flyback chronograph: hours, minutes, seconds.
The watch case in diameter of 42.5 mm and height of 14.3 mm is made of 18 carat pink gold and features a double-sided anti-glare sapphire crystal.
The case back is also made of sapphire glass. The watch water-resistant is 30 meters. Dial - black.
The hand-stitched strap of the watch is made of black Louisiana alligator leather. Buckle - classical type of 18-carat pink gold.
The Manero Chrono Perpetual (Ref: 00.10906.03.33.01) watch is presented in a limited edition of 100 items.
Options:
• Ref: 00.10906.03.13.01 - model with silver dial and brown genuine Louisiana alligator leather strap. Limited edition of 100 instances.
• Ref: 00.10906.08.13.01 - case and clasp of the classical type of stainless steel. Dial - silver. The hand-stitched black strap is made of genuine Louisiana alligator leather. Limited edition of 150 instances.

Official website of Carl F. Bucherer watches.