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Articles | Interview

Thin wrist watches at SIHH 2012
(part 10)

After the grandiose exhibition SIHH in January of 2012 the world of fine horlogerie has completed with wonderful models of wrist watches that embody the most delicate sphere of haute horlogerie. The women and men wrist watches with the thinnest cases are extremely popular among the fans of ageless classics. In spite of significant increase of case diameter and thickness, taking place in the watch industry during recent years, many collectors and amateurs of “lux” watches prefer thin time meters, which perfectly emphasize a sophisticated taste of their owners.
Before we take a look at the fine thin masterpieces of horlogerie, exhibited at SIHH 2012, it should be noted that a thin doesn’t mean simple. As it’s known, it’s much more difficult to create a miniature device, than to present the same device of a bigger size. Besides, the advantages of thin devices over “thick” ones have been noticed since a long time. Small gadgets are much more compact than unhandy devices. Just imagine what we would do without ultrathin notebooks, phones, small photo- and video-cameras, etc., which a modern man can’t do without. Perhaps, some readers will return that a wrist watch is a different story: the bigger and more “full-featured” the watch, the higher the owner’s social status – it means that a person’s success and wealth should be in sight. However, only one look at a unique thin model of wrist watch will be enough to realize its luxury and magnificence. Such fine watches are charming thanks to their elegance, sophistication and aristocratism. Most leading watch companies know about it, that’s why today you can buy a wrist watch with a thin case from the best Swiss manufactories. The first company, which decided to “restrict its watches to a diet”, is considered to be the Swiss manufactory “Vacheron Constantin”. Starting from 1812, this company has been designing ultrathin movements for its time meters, which are not inferior to massive watches in their functionality and accuracy. For example, Vacheron Constantin designed an in-house caliber of only 3,1 mm thickness, provided with one of the most difficult watch complications – minute repeater, in 1941-1942 already.
The picture of modern watch market is complete. The watch companies do not stop making thin masterpieces, inimitable pieces of delicate art. SIHH 2012 is an outstanding proof. The companies-“dietitians”, participating in SIHH 2012, have been the following: Piaget, A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Ralph Lauren, Cartier, Montblanc, Parmigiani. By the way, there is still no exact description of thin watches. Some researcher offered the case thickness of thin time meters – not over 10 mm. However, each watch company decides this figure in its own. Of course, it also depends on the movement complexity, which energizes a “slim” time meter. Let’s see what trendy thin watches we have in 2012.

A. Lange & Söhne – “simplicity – pledge of beauty”

The Swiss watch company “A. Lange & Söhne” is famous for its sophisticated wrist watches, combining Swiss precision and movement complexity with true German design, characterized by accuracy and laconism.
For SIHH 2012 A. Lange & Söhne has prepared the men wrist watch that is considered to be the thinnest time meter in the manufactory’s collection – “A. Lange & Söhne SAXONIA THIN”. Last year the company offered its fans to buy the wrist watch “A. Lange & Söhne SAXONIA THIN” made of pink gold, but this year the model’s case is crafted in 18-carat white gold. The model’s diameter – 40 mm, its thickness – only 5,9 mm. So, the men wrist watch “A. Lange & Söhne SAXONIA THIN” looks excellent, nobly and elegant on any wrist. Attractive appearance of this model is not its only privilege. Specially for extrathin case the watchmakers from A. Lange & Söhne designed an ultrathin movement of manual winding (caliber L093.1), the thickness of which doesn’t exceed 2,9 mm (the diameter — 28 mm). The miniature sizes of the movement do not influence on its uninterrupted work badly. The in-house caliber, consisting of 167 details, was completely decorated by hand, and the accuracy was adjusted in 5 positions. By the company’s tradition, the plate and bridges are made of untreated German silver. The caliber works at 21 stones, the power reserve makes up 72 hours at full winding. The shock-proof beryllium bronze balance oscillates at a frequency of 21 600 alterations per hour.
Two long central hands (hour and minute), made of white gold and treated with rhodium, are situated at silver dial. The dial is protected with sapphire glass, which is used for making the back case too. The men wrist watch “A. Lange & Söhne SAXONIA THIN” is fixed on wrist with the help of black crocodile leather strap, stitched by hand, and 18-carat white gold buckle.

caliber L093.1 SAXONIA THIN caliber L095.1

Another thin model, exhibited by A. Lange & Söhne at SIHH 2012, is the men wrist watch “A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1”, which is characterized by the company’s representatives as “perfect proportions of great classics”. The legendary Lange 1 was first showed in 1994. Since that time the model has changed, but never lost its status of masterpiece of horlogerie. Mainly the model’s sizes have changed. So, the new case has enlarged in diameter, reaching 40,9 mm (according to the latest tendencies), but it has “lost its weight” and become 8,8 mm in thickness. The Swiss manufactory “A. Lange & Söhne” with apparent Saxon roots offer three variant of new model to the world – “A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1” from yellow gold (ref. 117.021), pink gold (ref. 117.032), and platinum (ref. 117.025).
An asymmetric dial is divided into several parts. The main role is played by hour and minute dials with two golden hands (the materials of hands and case are the same; the watches with platinum cases are provided with golden hands, treated with rhodium). The small second hand is situated at the right part of dial, next to power reserve indicator. At “1” hour there is a big date indicator, consisting of two apertures. The graceful Roman numerals add majesty to wrist watches. The front and back cases are made of strong sapphire glass.

A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 (ref. 117.021) A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 (ref. 117.025) A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 (ref. 117.032)

The craftsmen of A. Lange & Söhne squeezed a thin in-house hand-wound movement of caliber L095.1 of 34,1 mm in diameter and 4,7 mm in thickness into the same thin case. The caliber, consisting of 397 details, works at 42 jewels and has a 72-hour power reserve. A shock-proof balance with adjustable screws oscillates at frequency of 21 600 alterations per hour. The thin in-house movement is adorned with hand engraving, and the plate and bridges are made of untreated German silver. The men wrist watch “A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1” is available with leather strap of brown color (the model from yellow gold with beige dial), of red-brown color (the men watch from pink gold with silver-plated dial), or of black color (the wrist watch from platinum with rhodium-covered dial). All straps are stitched by hand and provided with buckles from the same materials as the cases.

Ralph Lauren: delicate elegance in art-deco style


The issue of “Slim Classique” collection returned Ralph Lauren to the world of ageless elegance, to one of its favorite styles – art-deco. From 2009 the manufactory released several interesting models of wrist watches, reminding of watches in 1920s. It seems that Ralph Lauren’s passion for magic classic design of watch creations will never exhaust. The company “Ralph Lauren” prepared two new thin models of wrist watches for SIHH 2012 in Geneva: Ralph Lauren Slim Classique 867, made in unique style of art-deco.
The new men wrist watch from Ralph Lauren was named after the main store of the company, situated at 867, Madison Avenue, in New York. The company’s representatives call this boutique a “men’s destination for the ultimate in luxury and elegance”. According to the designers, the new wrist watch “Ralph Lauren Slim Classique 867” is an inimitable time meter for men. However, thanks to almost tiny square case of 27,5 х 27,5 mm, that wrist watch evoked both men’s and women’s interest.
The main difference between these two models is their luxury. The first model is specific by its bezel, adorned with one row of diamonds, and the amateurs of precious stones can buy the wrist watch “Ralph Lauren Slim Classique 867” with bezel, adorned with two rows of diamonds. Besides, the second model has diamonds on its staples, and the crown is decorated with the amazing rose-faceted precious stone. Speaking about figure in more details, the men wrist watch “Ralph Lauren Slim Classique 867” (ref. RLR0132703) is incrusted with 96 jewels, and the Swiss watch “Ralph Lauren Slim Classique 867” (ref. RLR0132702) is adorned with 201 precious stones. As the manufacturer asserts, from aesthetic point of view the double diamond row creates more harmony with other elements of the watch and total design of the model. However, no doubt, it depends on individual taste of each customer.

Ralph Lauren Slim Classique 867 Ref. RLR0132703 Ralph Lauren Slim Classique 867 Ralph Lauren Slim Classique 867 Ref. RLR0132702

The concept of so-called “squares in square” has become the main design decision. The designers of Ralph Lauren created a silver dial and provided it with black hands (hour and minute) of Breguet type, and also with “mixed up” and “confused” Roman and Arab numerals of different sizes of black color too. The dial is covered with flat sapphire glass with anti-glare treatment. A very small case of “Ralph Lauren Slim Classique 867”, made of 18-carat white gold, is also incredibly “slim” – only 5,75 mm in thickness. The watch cases are perfectly polished, that’s why the shining surfaces excellently harmonize with glittering diamonds on bezels. Both models of wrist watches are supplied with black straps of crocodile leather with “thorn”-buckles of 18-carat white gold.
Apart from extrathin case, the men wrist watch “Ralph Lauren Slim Classique 867” differs by its ultraflat movement. The hand-wound caliber RL430 makes up only 2,1 mm in thickness. This movement was designed by the Swiss company “Piaget”, the world leader-manufacturer of extrathin movements, specially for Ralph Lauren. The caliber RL430 consists of 131 details, the balance oscillates at frequency of 21 600 alterations per hour, providing a power reserve of 40 hours. The thin case remains water-resistant at up to 30 meters. The excellent miniature movement is adorned with vertical pattern “Cotes de Geneve” and “Perlage”.
No matter whether this watch adorns a wrist of elegant man or a miniature hand of graceful lady, this time meter with shining diamonds will fully reveal the essence and beauty of unique art-deco style and strict sophistication – the main distinguishing features of “Ralph Lauren Slim Classique” collection.

Audemars Piguet – “slim” watches to “Royal Oak” anniversary

In 2011, the whole watch world was astounded by a tragic event – the great man, legendary designer and watchmaker Gerald Genta, who made an enormous contribution into the development of watch industry, passed away. Gerald Genta cooperated with such Swiss companies, as Audemars Piguet, Patek Phillipe, Vacheron Constantin, Omega. The collaboration of Audemars Piguet with the legend of watch world became more than fruitful. As a result, the famous wrist watches from “Royal Oak” collection appeared. This year the line “Audemars Piguet Royal Oak” turns 40, and in honor of legendary “royal” collection’s anniversary the manufactory “Audemars Piguet” has presented its new thin watch creations of “Royal Oak” to its fans at the Genevan fair SIHH 2012. In 2012, the Swiss watch company “Audemars Piguet”, on which all fans of horlogerie put hopes, hasn’t disappointed them by presenting the wrist watches that can be safely called worthy successors of the first “Royal Oak” time meters of 1972 at SIHH 2012.
We’ll start studying the jubilee collection of Audemars Piguet from the model of thin wrist watch under the title “Audemars Piguet Open-Worked Extra-Thin Royal Oak” with reference 15203PT.OO.1240PT.01. The limited number of these wrist watches – totally 40 models – symbolizes a good round figure of “royal” collection existence. The watch case is made of 950 platinum and makes up 39 mm in diameter. The thickness of time meter is record small for a watch with such complicated movement – only 8,1 mm. The front case is made of transparent sapphire glass with anti-glare treatment. The model’s water resistant makes up 50 meters that is also a good figure for thin watch-skeletons. The skeletonized dial of grey color has laid marking of white gold and two central luminescent hands. A rather big date aperture is situated at “3” hours. For its new watch “Audemars Piguet Open-Worked Extra-Thin Royal Oak”, the company designed a skeletonized version of automatic caliber 2121 — caliber 5122, adorned with hand engraving. The thickness of almost weightless movement, working at 36 jewels, makes up 3,05 mm, the diameter – 28,4 mm. The balance frequency makes up 19 800 alterations per hour. The caliber consists of 247 details and has 40-hour power reserve. The men wrist watch “Audemars Piguet Open-Worked Extra-Thin Royal Oak” (15203PT.OO.1240PT.01) is available with platinum bracelet with brand unfolding buckle АР.

Openwork Extra-Thin Royal Oak 40th Anniversary Limited Edition (Ref: 15203PT.OO.1240PT.01) Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Openworked Tourbillon 40th Anniversary (ref. 26511PT.OO.1220PT.01)

Next. One more jubilee ultrathin skeleton from Audemars Piguet at SIHH 2012 is the men wrist watch “Аudemars Piguet Open-Worked Extra-Thin Royal Oak Tourbillon” (26511PT.OO.1220PT.01). This model is highly valued as it’s one of the thinnest tourbillon-provided skeletons in the world. The 950-platinum case is 41 mm in diameter and only 8,85 mm in thickness. The transparent anti-glare sapphire glass, covering the dial and back case, opens a view at the ultrathin movement, finished by hand. The water resistance makes up 50 meters. The skeletonized dial of grey color “sheltered” laid hour markings from white gold, two “Royal Oak” central hands with luminescent treatment, providing readability in darkness, and excellent tourbillon at “6” hours. The men wrist watch “Аudemars Piguet Open-Worked Extra-Thin Royal Oak Tourbillon” is equipped with platinum bracelet and unfolding buckle AP.
The watch-skeleton’s thin case holds a skeletonized movement of manual winding on caliber 2924 SQ at 33 jewels. Its thickness doesn’t exceed 4,46 mm, the diameter – 31,5 mm. The movement bridges are skillfully skeletonized, the balance frequency makes up 21 600 alterations per hour, and the power reserve – up to 70 hours at full winding.

One model of thin watches, presented at SIHH 2012, is the men wrist watch “Аudemars Piguet Extra-Thin Royal Oak” with reference 15202ST.OO.1240ST.01. This time meter is specific for its dial, presented in refinished “tapisserie” style. This wrist watch is the most outstanding example of Royal Oak time meter, keeping all features of the first model. The watch case is made of stainless steel, as all pieces of 1972, and the many-faceted bezel with famous eight screws allows referring this model to a true member of the “Royal Oak” watch family. The diameter of 50-m water-resistant case – 39 mm, its thickness – only 8,1 mm. The anti-glare sapphire glass, used for the front and back cases, provides perfect readability and opens an amazing movement, set in steel case. The blue dial, adorned by “Petite Tapisserie” technique, is provided with two central hands, treated with luminescence, thin laid hour markings from white gold and big date aperture at “3” hours.
The ultrathin in-house movement of caliber 2121, working at 36 jewels, has a diameter of 28,4 mm and a thickness of 3,05 mm. The caliber is assembled from 247 tiny details and provided with 40-hour power reserve. The thin watch case transforms smoothly into the bracelet, made of stainless steel with the brand unfolding buckle from Аudemars Piguet. It’s striking that even the steel thin Аudemars Piguet has such enormous popularity among the company’s fans and collectors, who strive for purchasing the wrist watches from the anniversary collection “Royal Oak” of 2012.

Extra-Thin Royal Oak (Ref: 15202ST.OO.1240ST.01) Audemars Piguet Extra-Thin Royal Oak Tourbillon (ref. 26510OR.OO.1220OR.01)

The men wrist watch “Аudemars Piguet Extra-Thin Royal Oak Tourbillon” (reference 26510OR.OO.1220OR.01) has taken a special place at SIHH 2012. This wrist watch, complicated with a unique tourbillon and released in honor of the 40th anniversary of “Royal Oak” collection, is a worthy “successor” of legendary family. Creating the Swiss watch “Аudemars Piguet Extra-Thin Royal Oak Tourbillon”, the company gave a tribute to the first models, which were distinguished with special elegance and sophistication. Provided with new caliber 2924 of manual winding, the wrist watch “Аudemars Piguet Extra-Thin Royal Oak Tourbillon” is one of the thinnest time meter with tourbillon at the world watch market. The diameter of the model makes up 41 mm, and its thickness doesn’t exceed 8,86 mm. The fans of “royal” watches by Аudemars Piguet can buy the men wrist watch “Аudemars Piguet Extra-Thin Royal Oak Tourbillon” from steel or 18-carat pink gold. The water-resistance of the case reaches 50 meters. The blue dial with “Petite Tapisserie” pattern is protected with anti-glare sapphire glass. The dial is provided with sophisticated thin hour markings (the pink gold version is provided with golden laid markings, correspondingly), two central hands, luminescent treated, and tourbillon at its place – at “6” hours. The company offers wearing the men watch with bracelet (from pink gold or stainless steel) with unfolding buckle АР.
The total thickness of the movement, which can be admired through the transparent back case from sapphire glass, makes up 4,46 mm together with tourbillon’s module, the diameter – 31,5 mm. The balance oscillates at frequency of 21 600 alterations per hour, providing 70-hour power reserve. The in-house caliber is assembled from 316 details and works at 36 jewels.
The anniversary collection of wrist watch “Royal Oak”, presented at SIHH 2012, has demonstrated adherence of Swiss watch company “Аudemars Piguet” to ageless traditions of watchmaking and respect to its rich heritage. After 40 years, the wrist Royal Oak remains popular and demanded all over the world, many collectors and fans of horlogerie desire to acquire the wrist watches “Аudemars Piguet Royal Oak” to “touch to beauty”.

Piaget — the world record-holder

The Swiss watch company “Piaget” is considered to be one of the biggest manufactories at the world watch market that deserved glory of the main “minimalizer” of watch cases and movements. The company has several world records to its credit, which it set by making both simple and complicated ultrathin wrist watches. Today Piaget, keeping on developing and marching victoriously by the world market, offers wrist watches to its fans, the precision and elegance of which deserve the highest awards.
At SIHH 2012 in January, Piaget has exhibited the new men wrist watch “Piaget Altiplano Automatic Skeleton” with reference GОА37132, which already became a record-holder at thin mechanics field. So, SIHH 2012 has completed the list of Piaget’s records with two more victories. It’s known that apart from designing thin calibers, Piaget was making watches-skeletons during a long time. And the superslim men wrist watch-skeleton “Piaget Altiplano Automatic Skeleton” has become one of the results of that activity. This model is the thinnest watch-skeleton with automatic movement in the world. The thickness is only 5,34 mm, at that the self-winding movement of caliber 1200S is 2,4 mm in height. And this is one more unquestioning victory of Piaget! The company’s specialists spent as many as three years to create that movement. The hand-finishing of the movement, as well as the form of its bridges, is perfect too. The movement works at 26 jewels, the balance frequency makes up 21 600 alterations per hour, the power reserve – 44 hours.
Piaget is one of few Swiss companies, which manufacture both in-house calibers and own cases for time meters. The men wrist watch-skeleton “Piaget Altiplano Automatic Skeleton” is provided with 38-mm case from 18-carat white gold. Two central Dauphine hands (hour and minute) are situated on the skeletonized dial. The front and back cases are made of transparent sapphire glass. The model is equipped with crocodile leather black strap with white gold buckle.

Piaget Altiplano Automatic Skeleton (Ref. G0A37132)manufactory skeletonized movement Piaget 1200S Piaget Altiplano Automatic Skeleton (Ref. G0A37132) watch backsidebackside of manufactory skeletonized movement Piaget 1200S

The ultrathin skeletonized model “Altiplano” from Piaget attracted the attention of all visitors at SIHH 2012, the luxury and magnificence of which posed a risk for the guests to pass by another ultrathin masterpiece by Piaget from “Altiplano” collection, including the thinnest wrist watches in the world. So, the next representative of “slim” watches at SIHH 2012 is the Swiss watch “Piaget Altiplano” by reference GOA35130.
This model is purity of lines and classics of time, united in a single ultrathin case of wrist watch “Piaget Altiplano” GOA35130, keeping old traditions of Piaget. The manufactory keeps on conquering heights of micromechanics, creating record thin movements. So, the men wrist watch “Piaget Altiplano” GOA35130 is equipped with the thinnest movement in the world, based on self-winding caliber 1208Р, the height of which makes up only 2,35 mm. So, the wrist watch “Piaget Altiplano” by reference GOA35130 is the thinnest watch in its category, the height of which doesn’t exceed 5,25 mm. The balance frequency is 21 600 alterations per hour, and the power reserve – 44 hours. The in-house caliber, assembled from 191 details, is skillfully finished by the best watchmakers of Piaget.
The silver-plated dial of model has a three-level structure and elegant classic style. The small second dial is placed at “4” hours, and two thin central hands count hours and minutes. The diameter of case, made of 18-carat white gold, makes up 43 mm. The men wrist watch “Piaget Altiplano” GOA35130 is offered to wear with black strap from crocodile leather with a golden buckle.

Piaget Altiplano GOA35130caliber 1208Р

Jaeger-LeCoultre – “delicate” nostalgia of the past

The exhibition SIHH 2012, the first important event in the watch world in 2012, has taken place in January, and all avid fans of Haute Horlogerie have turned their attention to Geneva. The Swiss watch company “Jaeger-LeCoultre”, manufacturer of “lux” watches, has taken an active part in the fair, presenting its new creations, which refer to the sphere of sophisticated mechanics in the truest sense of the word. When looking at all thin watches, exhibited by Jaeger-LeCoultre, one can notice one common feature – an apparent “nostalgic” note in practically all new interpretations of classic watches from Jaeger-LeCoultre. However, the company has also presented wrist watches with innovative design. For example, the men wrist watch “Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon” (reference Q1322510), referred to the category of ultrathin time meters. As it is mentioned above, there are no exact criteria of thinness in the watch world, but the wrist watch “Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon” is not really thin – its thickness makes up 11,3 mm at 40 mm of diameter. However, taking into consideration the movement’s features – self-winding and tourbillon module, the men wrist watch “Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon” fully justifies its name – it’s one of the thinnest time meters in its category. The men wrist watch “Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon” should be presented as an embodiment of sophistication and elegance. The model’s design reminds of pocket watches of the XIX century: round case, clear hour markings, long thin hands. But nevertheless, the wrist watch “Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon” remains a new piece of modern horlogerie, created in accordance with the best traditions of watchmaking. The in-house caliber 982 at 33 jewels, characterized by tourbillon module and 48-hour power reserve, is set in the round case, made of 18-carat pink gold. The flat movement, assembled from 262 details, makes up only 6,4 mm in thickness. The time meter is completed with brown strap from crocodile leather and golden buckle.
No doubt, in due course of time the main world values remain unchanged, only the ways they are performed are slightly changed. So, the Swiss watch company “Jaeger-LeCoultre” has presented two more models of wrist watches from its legendary collection “Master Control” at SIHH 2012. The superslim wrist watches enriched that watch family by a range of new features and unique characteristics. A bit diminished diameter of “Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche” case reaches 39 mm. An automatic caliber 938 with 43-hour power reserve, putting the wrist watch into action, meets all requirements to ultrathin movements. The frequency of balance oscillation – 28 800 alterations per hour. The movement of “Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche” with self-winding is assembled from 273 details and works at 41 jewels. The thickness of in-house caliber doesn’t exceed 4,9 mm (diameter — 26 mm). So, the model’s case has also become “slim” as much as possible – 8,85 mm. The round case is made of 18-carat pink gold (reference Q1372520), also there is a steel variant of “Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche” (reference Q1378420). The case is covered by sapphire glass from both sides, and its water resistance makes up 50 meters. The round dial of egg-shell color (pink gold version) or silver color (steel version) is provided with laid hour markings, two central (hour and minute) hands, second dial (at “6” hours), date and power reserve indicators. The thin wrist watch “Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche” is equipped with leather strap of chocolate color with “thorn”-buckle of pink gold or black strap from crocodile leather with unfolding steel buckle.

Jager-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche (ref. Q1372520) Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon (ref. 1322510) Jager-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche (ref. Q1378420)

Another wrist watches from “Jaeger-LeCoultre” at the Genevan show are the classic ultrathin models “Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control” with references Q1548420 (steel) and Q1542520 (pink gold), presented as ultrathin classic pieces. The renewed case makes up 39 mm in diameter and only 8,5 mm in thickness. These men wrist watches are characterized by a simple dial, but elegant at the same time, with the date aperture, situated at traditional place – at “3” hours, and three central hands. The movement of “Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control” represents a flat self-winding caliber 899 with 43-hour power reserve. The parameters of ultrathin movements are the following: diameter – 26 mm, thickness – 3,3 mm. The diminished size of the movement doesn’t decrease its technical level of complexity and degree of reliability and functionality at all. The in-house caliber is assembled from 219 details and provided with 32 jewels, the balance frequency reaches 28 800 alterations per hour. You can buy the wrist watch “Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control” in the case from 18-carat pink gold or stainless steel. The time meter remains water-resistant at up to 50 meters. The sapphire glass, covering the dial and back case, allows admiring the automatic movement. Jaeger-LeCoultre offers the wrist watches from “Master Control” collection with brown crocodile leather strap and golden thorn-buckle (pink gold version) or black leather strap with unfolding stainless steel buckle (steel version) to all fans of elegant classics.

Master Control (Ref. Q1542520) Jager-LeCoultre Grande Reverso 1931 Rouge Master Control (Ref. Q1548420)

The men wrist watch “Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso 1931 Rouge”, presented at SIHH 2012, represents a “festival” of beauty and elegance. This is an incredibly rare watch model, designed in vintage style, reminding of watches in 1931. In 1930s Jaeger-LeCoultre became a true avant-gardist of that time by releasing its wrist watches with rich dials. The legendary wrist watches “Grande Reverso” with vivid color decisions were the best companions of Haute Horlogerie fans at the beginning of past century. The new interpretation of this most powerful symbol of contradictory spirit of freedom has been presented at SIHH 2012 in Geneva. The wrist watches by Jaeger-LeCoultre from “Grande Reverso” collection will never lose their image of vanguard time meter with distinguishing aesthetics of art-deco style.
The new Swiss watch “Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso 1931 Rouge”, presented in January in Geneva, bears a deep imprint of the past, extraordinary novelty and original appearance, revealing nostalgia of past 30s. The most apparent changes in “Grande Reverso” watches: case enlargement and movement perfection. The rectangular case, made of stainless steel, grew up in length and width – not it reaches 46 mm х 27,5 mm. However, this model still doesn’t want “slenderness” for sure! The thickness of steel case makes up only 7,27 mm. Thus, the men wrist watch “Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso 1931 Rouge” perfectly looks at any, even the smallest wrist. The amazing thinness of the case directly depends on the movement, placed in the wrist watch. So, an in-house caliber 822 of self-winding, the thickness of which isn’t over 2,94 mm, works inside “Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso 1931 Rouge”. The caliber is assembled from 134 components at 21 jewels. The balance frequency – 21 600 alterations per hour, and the power reserve – up to 45 hours. The dial of wrist watch is distinguished from first models’ “faces” of 1931 by a more vivid color. The red dial without any numerals is provided with two hands and laid hour markings of silver color. This is one more difference between new watch “Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso” of 2012 and old one of 1931. The models of past century had big Arab numerals. Another interesting detail that will attract your attention by all means is a single inscription on the red dial – the printed word “Reverso”, and the brand’s name is absent. The manufacturer considered it unnecessary to mark the company’s name, as absolutely all fans of horlogerie associate the men wrist watches “Reverso” exclusively with the manufactory “Jaeger-LeCoultre”, named by the watch critics after the fair in Geneva as “The King of retro-innovations”.
The men wrist watch “Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso 1931 Rouge”, as well as the representatives of watch family “Master Control”, was tested for accuracy during 1000 hours, proved by the back case inscription.

Cartier: “Tank” cannot be stopped

Paris, London, and New York. 1847, 1902, and 1909. Obviously, Cartier brothers didn’t waste their time, but successfully conquered the whole planet, moving forward by leaps and bounds and opening its boutiques in the biggest cities of the world. The company “Cartier” came out to international level by creating its matchless watch collection, known as “Tank”. After the legendary watches “Tank Americaine” and “Tank Francaise” the wrist watch “Tank Anglaise” became a logical continuation of “Tank” history. So, the wrist watch “Tank Anglaise” is one more honorable member of legendary watch family from Cartier, characterized by famous rectangular case form and incredible design, simple and complicated at the same time. The new wrist watch “Cartier Tank Anglaise”, presented at SIHH 2012, has quite usual for Cartier’s fans Roman numerals, square case, harmoniously transforming into bracelet or strap, and blue dagger-formed hands from blued steel. The famous crown of “Cartier Tank”, as if built in the bezel, perfectly matches the total design of streamlined case. The whole construction of excellent “Cartier Tank Anglaise” has amazingly regular forms, which inimitable Louis Cartier always worked for. The new wrist watch “Cartier Tank Anglaise” is presented in both men and women variants, their cases are crafted in different kinds of gold. An irreplaceable transparent cover from sapphire glass opens a view at the in-house movement 1904МС. According to the representatives of Cartier, the history of Tank watches isn’t over yet, as now, thanks to millions of fans around the world, striving for getting new cult watches from Cartier, “Tank can’t be stopped”.

Cartier Tank Anglaise Large Model Cartier Tank Anglaise Medium Model Cartier Tank Anglaise Small Model

As it was mentioned before, the new wrist watches “Cartier Tank Anglaise” are presented in thin cases of three different sizes. One of the models — Cartier Tank Anglaise Small Model — is a quartz time meter of 7,19 mm thickness. However, we’ll dwell on mechanics, respected by all fans of haute horlogerie. The biggest novelty is “Cartier Tank Anglaise Large Model”, provided with traditional rectangular case 36,2 mm х 47 mm. The thickness of watch isn’t over 9,82 mm that allows referring this wrist watch to the category of thin time meters. The wrist watch “Cartier Tank Anglaise Large Model” is made of 18-carat white gold, treated by rhodium. The lacquered dial of silver color with Roman numerals and three central hands of blued steel is protected with sapphire glass. The big date aperture is situated at classic position of “3” hours. The rectangular case, water-resistant at 30 meters, smoothly transforms into the bracelet from white gold with rhodium treatment and golden buckle. The wrist watch “Cartier Tank Anglaise Large Model” is equipped with in-house self-winding caliber 1904МС.
The next thin model at SIHH 2012 — the wrist watch “Cartier Tank Anglaise Medium Model” in the case from 18-carat white gold, treated by rhodium and provided with golden bracelet and buckle. The case size — 29,8 mm х 39,2 mm, the thickness — 9,5 mm. The main design peculiarity of this model is shining diamonds on case, bezel, dial, and bracelet. The total weight of precious stones, by which practically all surface of the wrist watch is incrusted, makes up 13,3 carats. The water resistance of rainbow-shimmering case reaches 30 meters. The dial, covered with sapphire glass, has nothing excessive - only amazingly beautiful diamonds and three central hands of blued steel. The automatic caliber 076 gives life to the watch.

Another model, which undoubtedly deserves attention, is the wrist watch “Cartier Tank Folle”. This watch can be characterized as “free forms”, while an extraordinary interpretation of the watch case can’t be compared with any time meter, presented at the world watch market. Cartier, a creator of unique forms, put all its creative spirit into design of new bold time meter “Cartier Tank Folle”. An amazing case of wrist watch distinguished by audacious asymmetry heats imagination and creates sense of freedom and independence. The issue of “Cartier Tank Folle” is limited by totally 200 pieces, therefore, it’s not so easy to buy “Cartier Tank”, presented in a new image. The wrist watch, which is more likely to be designed for women, is made of 18-carat white gold with rhodium treatment. The sizes of unusual case: 29,4 mm х 33,91 mm, the thickness – only 7 mm. The shining diamonds, incrusted at golden bezel and 18-carat white golden buckle with rhodium treatment, give luxury and majestic beauty. The total weight of precious stones – 1,6 carats. The lacquered dial of silver color is provided with traditional Roman numerals, a visiting card of Cartier, and two blue hands of burnished steel. The water resistance of precious case – 30 meters. The watch has a mechanical “heart” – hand-wound in-house caliber 8970МС. Cartier offers to wear “Cartier Tank Folle” with a dark-grey textile strap.

Cartier Tank Folle Cartier Tank Louis Cartier XL Slimline

And, finally, let’s pay attention to the thinnest wrist watch from legendary Cartier at SIHH 2012 – this is “Cartier Tank Louis Cartier XL Slimline”, named by the manufactory as “ultimate elegance”. As it’s known, the wrist watch “Cartier Tank”, a symbol of extravagant style of 1920s, is one of many classic models, designed by the watch house “Cartier”. The style of new “Cartier Tank Louis Cartier XL Slimline” is ageless art-deco, used practically in all spheres of man’s activity today. As for “Cartier Tank Louis Cartier XL Slimline”, it is specific with its proud, strict lines of rectangular case, and much smoothed geometry of angles. This men wrist watch with an amazingly strong design is created to delight the public with its grandeur. The watch company “Cartier” managed to embody its legendary renewed “Tank”, which keeps all historic elements and features. The working field of talented watchmakers is paltry – a superslim case of only 5,1 mm in thickness that makes the men wrist watch “Cartier Tank Louis Cartier XL Slimline” the thinnest model in “Cartier Tank” collection. This wrist watch simply exhales a strong man’s spirit and restrained elegance. The model is made of 18-carat pink gold, the size of case – 34,92 mm (including crown) x 40,4 mm. The silver-plated dial, covered with strong mineral glass, is provided with big Roman numerals of black color and two central hands of blued steel. The water resistance of case – 20 meters. The wrist watch “Cartier Tank Louis Cartier XL Slimline” is equipped with a hand-wound movement of caliber 430МС, designed by the chief specialist in watch subtleties — Swiss company “Piaget”. The wrist watch “Cartier Tank Louis Cartier XL Slimline” is available with brown strap from crocodile leather with a buckle from 18-carat pink gold. Many fans of Cartier admit the wrist watch “Cartier Tank Louis Cartier XL Slimline” is what they’ve been expecting for a long time: traditional “tank” forms, precise movement, smoother profile, named “slimline”, and classic design, which is not that simple, as it may seem at the first glance.

Montblanc Star Classique Automatic: “the fewer, the better”

The watch industry had never developed and changed so headily and radically as during last few years. New technologies, noble materials, innovative functions – all this allowed watchmakers creating unprecedented forms and movements, which overshadowed the earlier watch concepts with their magnificence. Against the background of all proposed innovations and complicated designs the world watch companies don’t forget about such style in horlogerie, as ageless classics, paying special attention to it. So, the Swiss watch company “Montblanc” released the new wrist watch “Montblanc Star Classique Automatic”
Montblanc Star Classique Automatic (Ref. 107076) on the eve of SIHH 2012, completing its excellent collection “Montblanc Star”. The new wrist watch “Montblanc Star Classique Automatic”, presented at the show in Geneva, is made in classic design, but now is set in ultrathin case.
The men wrist watch “Montblanc Star Classique Automatic”
with a classic round case, lack of any “frills”, is an obligatory element of any man’s image, as, for example, collar-studs, tie, or shiny shoes. As it may seem at the first glance, the classic golden wrist watches were buried in oblivion and remained attributes of the past century, getting lost in brilliance and luxury of jewelry models and “Grand Complication” watches. The watch company “Montblanc” refutes this statement and presents its men wrist watch “Montblanc Star Classique Automatic”, which will become an irreplaceable accessory of modern elegant man.
Creating their new men wrist watch, the watchmakers from Montblanc followed the credo “the fewer, the better”. Hours, minutes and seconds – this is all a modern man needs to know to be punctual at both business meeting and romantic date. The representatives of Montblanc assure that the man, living a full life, undoubtedly knows current date and week day, and his smart phone is able to show the calendar and second time zone, also he can use a stop-watch, provided in it, whenever he needs. According to the watch creators, the most important thing for a man is to wear a wrist watch, attractive but discreet at the same time, and thin enough to be comfortable on his wrist, and also clear and accurate for its owner could read the time at once.
All aforementioned characteristics refer to “Montblanc Star Classique Automatic”, which creates a unique aura, endowing its owner with sophisticated nobleness. The diameter of time meter makes up 39 mm, and the thickness of case together with thin bezel doesn’t exceed 8,9 mm. A slightly convex anti-glare sapphire glass guarantees perfect readability of round silver dial. Thanks to its stylish minimalism, the dial looks stunning. Eight hour markings and four Arab numerals are gilded, as well as the leaf-shaped hands (hour, minute and second). An additional second dial is positioned at “6” hours. The water resistance makes up 30 meters. This model is also highly valued thanks to its extra-accurate self-winding movement, which can be admired through transparent back case from sapphire glass. The caliber МВ4810/408 at 27 rubies with golden balance, oscillating at frequency of 28 800 alterations per hour, is a perfect example of precise watch mechanics. The power reserve – 42 hours. However, the main peculiarity of “Montblanc Star Classique Automatic” is the recognition by the Montblanc watchmakers as one of the most important “heroes” of the company’s collection. The watch connoisseurs and critics, who keep a close eye on the development of watch market, undoubtedly noticed an intense interest of customers in everything that begins with the prefix “extra-”: extra-complicated movement, extra-thin case, or extra-slim forms. So, the men wrist watch “Montblanc Star Classique Automatic” is one of these “extra-attributes” of a modern man. An “extra-image” is completed with an elegant strap from crocodile leather and a golden buckle. The men wrist watch “Montblanc Star Classique Automatic” was released in several variants: from 18-carat pink or yellow gold, also from gold and steel with bezel and crown of 18-carat pink gold. The fans of ageless classics can buy the wrist watch “Montblanc Star Classique Automatic” in boutiques of the company in June of 2012, when the model will come in the market.

 

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