Favre Leuba Adds Hand-Guilloché Dial to 25-Piece Chief Tourbillon

Favre Leuba announced the Chief Tourbillon Guilloché on 23 October 2026, with production limited to 25 pieces. The new edition retains the tourbillon movement of the Chief Tourbillon introduced in 2025 but replaces that model's three-dimensional dial treatment with a blue hand-guilloché surface.

Traditional dial cutting

The new dial carries a grain d'orge, or barleycorn, pattern radiating from its centre. According to Favre Leuba, the pattern is produced by hand on a rose-engine lathe dating from the late nineteenth century. Each dial requires at least five to six hours of work. The cut pattern changes the way light reflects across the blue surface without relying on a printed motif.

Guilloché is a decorative metalworking technique in which a controlled cutting tool produces repeating geometric grooves. A rose engine is particularly suited to curved and radiating patterns. The dial treatment is the principal visual distinction between the new Chief Tourbillon and its 2025 predecessor.

Favre Leuba Chief Tourbillon Guilloché with blue barleycorn dial in a cushion-shaped steel case
Chief Tourbillon Guilloché. Photo: Favre Leuba
Favre Leuba Chief Tourbillon Guilloché with blue guilloché dial on a blue rubber strap
Chief Tourbillon Guilloché on a blue rubber strap. Photo: Favre Leuba

The Chief case and FL T01 calibre

The Chief Tourbillon Guilloché uses a 41 mm cushion-shaped steel case with contrasting surface finishes. Its calibre FL T01 was developed in collaboration with independent movement specialist Jean-François Mojon, whose work was also associated with the first Chief Tourbillon. The new edition retains that movement rather than introducing a new calibre.

  • Edition: 25 pieces
  • Case: stainless steel
  • Diameter: 41 mm
  • Dial: blue, hand-guilloché barleycorn pattern
  • Movement: FL T01
  • Complication: tourbillon
  • Movement development: collaboration with Jean-François Mojon

A second version of the 2025 tourbillon

The Chief collection's cushion-shaped case draws on designs associated with Favre Leuba's earlier watches. The brand returned to the international market with a broader relaunch in 2024 and presented the first Chief Tourbillon in 2025. The 2026 Guilloché edition continues that line with a different decorative process rather than a change in the watch's central mechanical concept.

Source: FAVRE LEUBA, official announcement.